Check here for oil type recommendations!
4 posters
:: Manufacture Specific :: Nissan
Page 1 of 1
Check here for oil type recommendations!
A couple of people have asked me lately what oil to put in their 200sx/silvia, so Im basically thieving this post off the oil guru on another site. To be fair this is valuable info so in return I'll plug his site: www.opieoils.co.uk
"Ok, to be frank with you.
The manufacturer seems to recommend a range of oils for your cars from 5w to 15w and sae 30 to 50.
Based on regular service intervals and "normal" driving however the best bet with regards to standard cars and UK weather is 10w-40 Semi or Fully Synthetic.
There are always options to consider with regards to "special requirements" if you would like to do this but you'll need further advice and.................I may have further questions for you.
Nissan 200sx (1989-93) API SF
Nissan 200sx (1995-97) API SG
Nissan 200sx (1997-99) API SH
Specs have moved on now so most oils sold today are API SJ/SL
As mentioned above, there are reasons for stepping out of the Manufacturers recommended grade but you should never go too far, 0w might not be good here nor would 60, it's just a step too far.
So, why would you want to do it?
Basically there are advantages here and they are as follows:
5w-40 instead of 10w-40
5w offers better cold start and short journey protection as it's thinner than 10w and remember this is when 70+ percent of the engine wear occurs.
10w-50 instead of 10w-40 - 15w-50 instead of 15w-40
50 offers better protection than 40 when the engine is running hot so if you're doing track days or hard driving you may want to consider this option.
A word of warning about 60 grade
Modern engines do not need a 60 grade, it's really too thick and, even hot-running engines do not need SAE 60 oil these days. (by ‘hot’ I mean 120-130C). SAE 60 is heavier than most SAE 90 gear oils. If an oil is too thick, it de-aerates slowly, leading to cavitation in the oil pump, or the bearings being fed slugs of air along with the oil.
The thickness of the oil will also have an effect on the cars performance.
Synthetic Oils instead of Mineral Oils.
It is a fact that Semi and Fully synthetic oils are better for your car, they flow better when cold and give a greater level of protection when the engine is hot.
It is a fact, not myth that complex engines such as DOHC, Turbocharged, and Supercharged when driven hard will always have a greater degree of protection from a synthetic oil.
A synthetic oil is more robust and will last longer (that's why they cost more) mineral oils need much more frequent oil changes but they are cheaper. Semi-synthetic is to some extent the "middle ground" for pennies more than a good mineral oil.
Ester Synthetic Oils against Normal Synthetic Oils
The oils that give true benefits are ester synthetics (pretty hard to come by as they are expensive to make although Silkolene still does). The reasons for their application in motorsport and the aviation sector are clear:
They assist the additive pack in a motor oil formulation because they are surface-active (electrostatically attracted to metal surfaces), so they help to reduce wear and friction.
They are fluid at very low temperatures and at high temperatures they are very chemically stable and have low volatility (don’t evaporate away).
They also help to prevent hardening and cracking of oil seals at high temperatures.
It should be said that there are three types of synthetic oils on the market and they vary in quality and price the lowest being MC/HC (Molecularly Converted/Hydrocracked) mineral oil, POA's Poly Alpha Olefins and Esters.
So, there you have it, some advantages and disadvantages to consider"
"Ok, to be frank with you.
The manufacturer seems to recommend a range of oils for your cars from 5w to 15w and sae 30 to 50.
Based on regular service intervals and "normal" driving however the best bet with regards to standard cars and UK weather is 10w-40 Semi or Fully Synthetic.
There are always options to consider with regards to "special requirements" if you would like to do this but you'll need further advice and.................I may have further questions for you.
Nissan 200sx (1989-93) API SF
Nissan 200sx (1995-97) API SG
Nissan 200sx (1997-99) API SH
Specs have moved on now so most oils sold today are API SJ/SL
As mentioned above, there are reasons for stepping out of the Manufacturers recommended grade but you should never go too far, 0w might not be good here nor would 60, it's just a step too far.
So, why would you want to do it?
Basically there are advantages here and they are as follows:
5w-40 instead of 10w-40
5w offers better cold start and short journey protection as it's thinner than 10w and remember this is when 70+ percent of the engine wear occurs.
10w-50 instead of 10w-40 - 15w-50 instead of 15w-40
50 offers better protection than 40 when the engine is running hot so if you're doing track days or hard driving you may want to consider this option.
A word of warning about 60 grade
Modern engines do not need a 60 grade, it's really too thick and, even hot-running engines do not need SAE 60 oil these days. (by ‘hot’ I mean 120-130C). SAE 60 is heavier than most SAE 90 gear oils. If an oil is too thick, it de-aerates slowly, leading to cavitation in the oil pump, or the bearings being fed slugs of air along with the oil.
The thickness of the oil will also have an effect on the cars performance.
Synthetic Oils instead of Mineral Oils.
It is a fact that Semi and Fully synthetic oils are better for your car, they flow better when cold and give a greater level of protection when the engine is hot.
It is a fact, not myth that complex engines such as DOHC, Turbocharged, and Supercharged when driven hard will always have a greater degree of protection from a synthetic oil.
A synthetic oil is more robust and will last longer (that's why they cost more) mineral oils need much more frequent oil changes but they are cheaper. Semi-synthetic is to some extent the "middle ground" for pennies more than a good mineral oil.
Ester Synthetic Oils against Normal Synthetic Oils
The oils that give true benefits are ester synthetics (pretty hard to come by as they are expensive to make although Silkolene still does). The reasons for their application in motorsport and the aviation sector are clear:
They assist the additive pack in a motor oil formulation because they are surface-active (electrostatically attracted to metal surfaces), so they help to reduce wear and friction.
They are fluid at very low temperatures and at high temperatures they are very chemically stable and have low volatility (don’t evaporate away).
They also help to prevent hardening and cracking of oil seals at high temperatures.
It should be said that there are three types of synthetic oils on the market and they vary in quality and price the lowest being MC/HC (Molecularly Converted/Hydrocracked) mineral oil, POA's Poly Alpha Olefins and Esters.
So, there you have it, some advantages and disadvantages to consider"
Guest- Guest
Re: Check here for oil type recommendations!
Good post,very important to get your oil right especially for turbo cars!
MichealECR33- Elite
- Posts : 210
Location : Galway
Age : 34
Join date : 2012-02-08
Re: Check here for oil type recommendations!
They say mobil 15w 50 is the best oil you can put in the likes of a sr20
podgedun- Elite
- Posts : 701
Location : Carlow
Join date : 2011-03-08
Re: Check here for oil type recommendations!
MichealECR33 wrote:Good post,very important to get your oil right especially for turbo cars!
x2 not good with it running to thin when hot an to thick either
Re: Check here for oil type recommendations!
Mobil1 15w50 is the best oil for SR20DET engines
Stevo..- Member
- Posts : 56
Location : Dublin
Age : 43
Join date : 2012-04-12
:: Manufacture Specific :: Nissan
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